Dan Barry: FERNDALE, Calif. — In the verdant Eel River Valley of Northern California, where everyone is tied by blood or business, a dairy farmer named John Vevoda does his part. Though the roars of tractors have deafened an ear, and decades of nudging cows while milking have ruined a shoulder, he accepts his role and fulfills it.
He and his family keep a herd of 600. He employs Alan, Alberto, Dave, Edgar, Jesus, Jose and Umberto. He pays his bills. He recycles. And every two days, he forwards thousands of gallons of raw milk to the Humboldt Creamery, which rises five miles away beside the twisting, rushing Eel River.
Manny Fernandez: FAIRFIELD, Conn. — The bus pulled up at a quiet…
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