The Town That Sugar Built

Jeff Klinkenberg: CLEWISTON — Anita Griffin is proud of her chicken, moist on the inside, crisp on the outside and never greasy. Griffin — everyone calls her Miss Anita — is a classic Southern cook who learned from her mother, raised a brood of children and ended up in homey Clewiston, where she opened Dixie Chicken & Seafood.

She's a tiny woman of 73, with white hair and apple cheeks. Sometimes after closing, folks tap on the glass, hoping for one more drumstick or a peek at her shrine to Elvis Presley.

"I feed a lot of people," she said, wiping the counter for the umpteenth time.

Now more than ever, the citizens of Clewiston need comfort food from Miss Anita.

The ultimate company town, Clewist…